Growing up, my dad had a way of telling stories that made you feel like you were right there—whether it was the streets of Phillipsburg, New Jersey, or a winding road in Sicily that could double as a race track. So when he wrote this blog post about our family's roots and his 2018 trip to Sicily, I knew it was going to be a journey worth taking.

Picture this: A twelve-year-old kid sitting on his front steps in Jersey, looking up at the stars, thinking, Hey, I could be President someday. Fast-forward a few decades, and that same kid is tracing his ancestors’ footsteps through Sicily, probably wondering why half the roads are the width of a breadstick.

Dad takes you through generations of struggle, survival, and Sicilian pride—where everything, including your donkey, got taxed. He details his trip through Taormina, Palermo, and our ancestral village, Motta D’Affermo, where the air smells like lemon and orange trees, and the locals treat you like family.

So sit back, grab an espresso (or a cannoli, I won’t judge), and enjoy this story. Just don’t read it on an empty stomach—because trust me, the food descriptions alone will have you booking a flight.

American Roots in Sicily

It was a calm and cool summer evening after the lightning, thunder and rain had passed in Phillipsburg, New Jersey. I was 12 years old sitting in front of our open door, at 82 Sitgreaves Street. The stars shined brightly, and the air was fresh. In this country, I mused, I could be President of the United States of America. It was a blessed moment.

German immigrants, arrived in the British colonies in the 1670s, to escape the 30-year religious war, and they settled in Pennsylvania, New York, and Virginia. By 1773, there were Scots in Kentucky and, between 1820 and 1900, millions of Irish emigrated to the USA. Many were forced to fight in the Civil war. Wealthy Italians came in the late 1800s.

Rural Sicily and Italy remained a feudal land with a permanent underclass. My grandparents’ difficult and courageous escape from oppression benefited the family. “We were starving to death and everything was being taxed, even our donkeys," said my paternal grandfather, Ignazio.

My grandfather Don Ignazio was born in the hill town of Motta D’Affermo, 700 feet above Santo Stefano. My grandmother Donna Maria was a garment worker who spoke affectionately of the beauty of north coastal Santo Stefano di Camastra, Provincia di Messina, Sicily. She fondly remembered the flowers and the lemon-orange scented air in “Bella Sicilia.”

In August of 2018, Judy and I drove northeast from Catania, Sicily Airport. We were surprised by the abrupt right turn that led up the tortuous road to the convenient and affordable parking garage, just outside the center of Taormina. Taormina is a dreamy town high in the clouds overlooking the aqua Ionian Sea. A shuttle takes us to our rustic family run boutique Hotel Victoria. 

We walk this delightful and people friendly medieval town and enjoy the ancient Greek theater dating to the 3rd century BCE, the popular 13th-century cathedral, and grand Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. In the evening there is live music and singing. We stroll along Corso Umberto, lined with upscale shops and restaurants. We enjoy dinner at Restaurant Rosso Peperoncino, our favorite place off the beaten path. The time passed quickly. 

One day we drove around the island to join our cousins. We stopped in Santo Stefano. Santo Stefano di Camastra is 65 miles northeast of Palermo and 82 miles southwest of Messina along the seaside road. It sits at the foot of the Nebrodi Mountains. It is noted for its colorful ceramics. “The present town rose after a disastrous landslide on 6 June 1682, the reconstruction was planned by Giuseppe Lanza Barresi, Duke of Camastra and Prince of Santo Stefano and the name was changed to Santo Stefano di Camastra. The plan of the new town, a diamond inscribed within a square, was inspired by both Versailles and Villa Giulia in Palermo, with wide streets sided by palm trees and green areas. The square is oriented to the cardinal points N, S, E, W, according to the ideal urban schemes typical of the Renaissance.”

La Giara is the oldest Sicilian ceramic factory located in Santo Stefano specializing in handcrafted creations. In particular, the artists are dedicated to the creation of colored glazed earthenware, called majolica.

We drove up the winding seven-mile road above Santo Stefano to Motta D’Affermo to celebrate cousin Archangela’s 93rd birthday. Motta D’Affermo is high in the clouds on the rough mountainous northwest coast, The panoramic views of the countryside and the Tyrrhenian Sea are spectacular.

We enjoyed Grazia, Angelo and Sebastian’s families. They toasted us with champaign, and hosted a festive lunch with sumptuous Sicilian dolci (sweets). After our meal, we observed the procession and festivities of the Feast of Saint Sebastian.

We visited the Church of Maria Santissima degli Angeli with Romanesque columns and pilasters across the entire façade, the most important church in medieval Sicily. Inside the structure there stand three naves, which are divided by rows of columns made with local stone. The walls are covered by paintings, with canvases coming from Sicilian artists, to which are added beautiful works in Carrara marble. The transparent floor covers the underlying burial crypts filled with the bones of clergy. It was a good day, and we drove back to Taormina.

"In the heart of every man … there is that part which is Italian, that part which finds regimentation irksome, war frightening, strict morality stifling, that part which loves frivolous and entertaining art, admires larger than life size heroes and dreams of an impossible liberation from the strictures of a tidy existence.” (Luigi Barzini, 1977)

Authenticity can be elusive when visiting Italy and Sicily. Authenticity is staying in a villa and feeling that you are at home with friends. It is to allow yourself to belong and bathe in the simply beautiful, elegant and yet liberating Italian life. Italians respect Americans and will show that respect and love if we allow.

Southern Italy and Sicily have always been the “breadbasket” of the Mediterranean and the people have toiled under the control of the Greek, Turkish, Norman and Spanish Feudal Lords. It was “midnight in Sicily” when the Sun shone brightly in Rome and Milan Italy. (Midnight in Sicily” by Peter Robb, 1999). The hill town people throughout rural Southern Italy and in the hill towns of Sicily did not have in-house running water or sewage until the 1990’s. Our family owned a private well which was unique for farmers. People traveled to public fountains and springs, filling bottles and jugs with water. Life was simple and difficult, and families enjoyed the close-knit community, good food and homemade wine. Americans magnify most things, and Italian cooking is no exception. Authentic Italian cuisine demands fresh ingredients and spices in moderation. For example, garlic is used sparsely and cut paper thin or used whole and removed from food before serving.

From our memories and the experiences of others we recommend the following 14-day itinerary to enjoy authentic Sicily. Enjoy all or part of this lovely Island. Fly into Catania airport and rent a car. Of course, spend 3 nights in nearby Taormina.

Then drive along the coast southwest to Siracusa (75 mi 1.5 hours). Siracusa is divided into two areas: the historic center on the island of Ortigia and the mainland. The Island of Ortigia is linked to the mainland by two bridges and cannot be reached by car, but it is easily accessible on foot. In Ortigia, you will encounter incredible sites such as the honey-coloured sandstone Baroque Cathedral of Syracuse, and the famous Fountain of Diana. We would plan a 2 night stay and we have been told Algilà Ortigia Charme Hotel is lovely.

On the mainland see “The Ear of Dionysius”, an awe-inspiring 20-metre-high cave. Legend has it that the tyrant of Syracuse, Dionysius, utilized the incredible acoustics of this spot to eavesdrop on the conversations of his imprisoned captives.

Of course, the seafood in Sicily is wonderful, and Ortigia will spoil you with its locally caught fish. The tuna and grouper made with olives and capers will delight your palate. The fish soup (stew) is unique. Indulge in the dolci (sweets) like buccellati siracusana, almond-based biscuits adorned with candied pistachios and orange peels.

After an early breakfast, proceed southwest along the coast to Licata (120 miles – 3 hours) and stop for lunch at Dal Forno Generoso. Then on your way to Mazara del Vallo (98 miles 2.5 hours), you will pass Selinunte, 270 hectares of Europe’s largest archaeological park on Sicily's south coast. If you have time, Cave di Cusa (make an appointment) is where the stones used in Selinunte's temples were quarried - take water and wear a hat. In Mazara del Vallo, the village of Sicilian fishermen is near Marsala where Garibaldi landed with a thousand men to liberate Sicily and unite Italy. There is the Museum of Dancing Satyr, a Greek statue found in the sea, and a beautiful Cathedral and the Marble Studio - da Marmorao. Proceed to beach side San Vito Lo Capo (50 miles – 1 hr.) and stay 3 nights. (Hotel Auralba, or B&B Alba Marina). Enjoy the beaches and, if summer, bathe in the sea. Have dinner (Cena) at Thama Restaurant and enjoy pairing your meal with Syrah, Lo Stagnone.

Enjoy an ideal day trip to Erice (20 miles 3/4 hr.) for lunch. Drive and park outside the walls; take the cable car 2500 feet above sea level or hop on the local bus. The ancient Greek name of Erice was Eryx and its foundation was associated with the Greek hero Eryx. Erice, is one of the most beautiful villages in Sicily. Its history was embellished by the poet Virgil, who mentioned Erice in his epic work, Aeneid. Plan to relax and walk along the cobblestone streets; eat lunch at Ristorante Monte San Giuliano Italian, Vicolo San Rocco 7, 91016, Erice, Sicily Italy +39 0923 869595 and delicious pastries at Pasticceria Maria Grammatico.

In addition to the Norman-style churches, the oldest church, the Spanish Chiesa Madre, of Santa Maria Assunta, is worth visiting. Its bell tower was built for defensive and lookout purposes. The Castello di Venere, built by the Normans used materials from the Temple of Venere Ericina from which it takes its name. On one side you can see the Tyrrhenian coast of the gulf of Trapani, with San Vito lo Capo on the horizon, and on the other side there’s the port of Trapani, with the salt pans and the Aegadian islands. 

Drive to Palermo (70 miles – 2hrs) and stay 3 nights. Ucciardhome Hotel (Via Enrico Albanese 34/36, 90139 Palermo, Italy) Palermo, ruled through history by Phoenicians, Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards, is fascinating and with its palm trees, prickly pears and banyan trees, a botanical melting pot. The Teattro Massimo is immense, and it towers over the relatively small buildings surrounding the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi. Opened in 1897, it is the largest Opera House in Italy and is famed for its acoustic qualities. With an exterior that looks more like a palace, this building is truly opulent, but the interior is just as lavish. Take a guided tour or better yet go to the Opera, a real experience. For film buffs, this theatre is also the place where the final scenes of the movie Godfather III were filmed.

Visit the 12th-century mosaics in the church of La Martorana (Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio), the Cappella Palatina is located in close proximity to the Pallazzo dei Normanni in the centre of Palermo and is one of the best preserved examples of Byzantine architecture and artwork in Europe. Food markets are a fantastic way to sample local life and see the heart of a city. Palermo has several wonderful food markets that operate daily. The main food markets include La Vucciria, all of which are in the centre of the city and not far from the main attractions. Prepare to have your senses overwhelmed with the variety of smells and the noise from the vendors selling their wares. You must set aside half a day for the trip up to lofty Monreale, a small village, whose cathedral boasts yet more dazzling Norman-era mosaics.

From Palermo, take a day trip and drive along the North Coast to Cefalù (45 miles - 1 hr.). The city sits on a promontory beneath a castle-topped bluff. Its long is washed by the azure Mediterranean. The twin towers of the Duomo, a Norman cathedral was started in 1131. You can feel the Arab influence in the architecture of this beautiful church, but the mosaics are Byzantium, colored glass backed by gold leaf.

On our visit, we visited Sardinia. We flew from Palermo to Calgari, the capital and stayed at the sun-filled "Hotel Caesar”. It was comfortable with a good restaurant. Nearby the lagoons (stagni) are one of the annual resting grounds for flamingoes in the Mediterranean. The Bastionne di San Remy on Piazza Constitutione, and the Torre di San Pancrazio gives us breath taking views of Calgary’s Byzantine and Romanesque architecture and the Mediterranean Sea. Calgari is the home of the Institute for the genetics of Thalassemia Major Anemia caused by family intermarriages. During a walk, I discovered a gastronomic “secret” called La Taverna Pirata (Viale Regina Margherita 22 - 09124 Cagliari +39 070 658474) in the back streets and Judy and friends and I enjoyed a most authentic seafood meal - a serendipitous blessing.

After your fantastic trip to Sicily, you will prepare to drive back to Palermo to rest and pack – then to the airport to drop off your auto and fly home.

Postscript: If you want to "exaggerate," visit the island of Salina, in the Aeolian Islands. And enjoy a 4-night stay at the Hotel Signum which is very nice. Note, Cefalu to Milazzo (85 miles -1.5 hours) then Milazzo hydrofoil ferry to Salina (1.5 hours). 

Until next time, God bless you.

George A. Arangio, M.D.

P.S. Keep We Talk with God at your bedside and share it with your family.

P.P.S. Please ask three (3) of your family and friends to read We Talk with God. It may be the answer to their prayers. And give a rating and a review. Thank you.

Summary:

The post isn’t just about sightseeing; it’s about experiencing Sicily like a local—strolling medieval streets, savoring fresh seafood, and celebrating with family over homemade wine. There’s even a detailed 14-day itinerary, covering must-visit spots like Palermo, Cefalù, and the ancient ruins of Selinunte. The takeaway? Sicily isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to feel, to connect, and to truly embrace la dolce vita.

George A. Arangio, M.D., is the author of We Talk with God, a scripture-based guide to God’s advice that will boost your spiritual energy, bring you peace, and enrich your life. It is full of simple lessons. It shows how God’s Word guarantees answers to life’s important questions. It may also be the answer to your prayers. Please read it and write a review on Amazon.com. For further insights and discussion, visit WeTalkWithGod.com.