Secrets of Cantina Ceci

Hope you're having a great day. So, get this—my parents decided to take a little trip to Italy. Yes, they’re living the dream, cruising around the Italian countryside in a "smart" car so small you can roll down both windows at the same time—without leaning. Every time they parked, they worried someone might mistake the car for a lost suitcase. They headed to Cantina Ceci in Emilia Romagna, and let me tell you, I’ve never heard them talk so much about wine in my life.

They met the Ceci family—Maria Teresa, her dad Giovanni, and the whole gang. These folks have been making wine since the 1930s, and my parents got the VIP treatment, learning all about how they turned a little family-run osteria into a winery that’s cranking out 2.5 million bottles a year.

My mom couldn’t stop raving about the history, the flavors, and of course, the wine itself. And my dad? Well, let’s just say he’s suddenly an expert on Lambrusco. They even got some insider tips on where to eat—some hidden gem of a trattoria that’s apparently the best thing since sliced bread.

So if you’re curious about what makes a wine really special, or you just want to live vicariously through my parents, check out this story. Who knows, you might just find yourself booking a flight to Italy after reading it.

Buon viaggio and enjoy!

It was a sun filled September morning in 2011 and my interest in Italian wine history stimulated my visit to Cantina (Cellar) Ceci, Torille, Provence of Emilia Romagna. Please travel with me as I drive my Smart Car on the roads of the lush plains north of Parma. I feel excitement to learn the history of the Ceci family in the gastronomic center of Italy. I am here, gathering research for my next book: tough work, but someone must do it.

The region is a rich and fertile area in north central Italy that stretches almost from coast to coast. It is bordered by Piemonte and Lombardia above and Toscana below. Emilia-Romagna's is one of Italy’s most productive wine regions with over 136,000 acres of vineyards that date to the seventh century B.C. planted by the Etruscans. The vines are the Vitis Labrusca species (fox grape) with their natural yeasts and sugars from which Emilia-Romagna's unique dry Lambrusco wines flow.

Vitis Labrusca Species

As I entered the Cantina Ceci driveway at 135, Strada Provinciale Di Golese, Torille, Italy, the winery is full of pallets of new wine bottles piled high. Maria Teresa Ceci cordially greets me. We entered the Cantina’s reception area which is bold and colorful and welcoming and the Ceci name dominates. Maria Teresa and Francesca, her English-speaking assistant, and this American visitor sit around a comfortable table to learn Ceci family secrets.

Cantina Ceci Reception

La Storia (the story) Ceci begins in 1930 in the countryside when only a few automobiles and a simple life existed. All activity was focused on the home and foods and beverages produced from the land by the family. The women cooked and the men gathered and Otello Ceci and his brother operated the Osteria Bassa Parmense. An osteria (tavern) is family run, and serves wine, simple food and with short menus of local pasta and grilled meat or fish. Osterie tend to be inexpensive, and some allow clients to bring in their own food.

Osteria Bassa Parmense 1930

Each September and October, Otello and his brother harvested the grapes and made their homemade wine (vino da casa), protecting family methods. So notable was the Ceci reputation for excellence in making Lambrusco wine, they earned the admiration and trust of their grape growing neighbors. They sold their treasured grapes at the “Vendemmia” (grape harvest). Customers savored the Lambrusco the Ceci legend was born.

Otello Ceci, 1938

Otello closed his Osteria. And with his sons, Bruno and Giovanni, he founded Cantina Ceci and concentrated on his exploration of wine making. Otello’s passion was mirrored by his son’s actions and their knowledge developed. Bruno and Giovanni (John) inherited the winery. They established Cantine Ceci’s Lambrusco wines as some of the best in Emilia-Romagna.

Generation after generation the Ceci family has smartly developed the business. In 1975, they moved from the old homestead to their present location about 100 yards down the road. In 1990, they invested in automation. In 2003, the rich Otello Nebrodi Wine was born which is made from a late harvest in October and undergoes maceration on the skins at a low temperature. In 2011, Cantina Ceci increased production 500% to 1,000,000 bottles per year. The Ceci family continues to collect the grapes from family and friends and continues to rent local vineyards of Lambrusco, Malvasia, Fortana, Chardonnay, Barbera and Bonarda grape varieties.

Today, Cantina Ceci is operated by the grandchildren, Maria Paola, Elisa, Maria Teresa, Chiara, and Alessandro. The family now brings a definite feminine flair to their work. Together they build on what their grandfather and fathers developed and continue a rich winemaking tradition for their families. The Ceci company exports wine all over the world and defines a new standard for Lambrusco. And in the Ceci 1938 - Otello Nero di Lambrusco, they have created a wine that is unique: sparkling; yet dry; aromatic and a deep violet-red color. Today, three generations later, the Ceci family remain at the top of Italian wine making and the Cantina Ceci family produce 2,500,000 bottles yearly.

Alessandro, Maria Paola, Elisa, Chiara, Maria Teresa

Cantina Ceci uses the Charmat-Martinotti process (bulk closed tank fermentation) to make its sparkling wines which are fermented under 1-3 atmosphere pressure and the fully sparkling spumante wines which are fermented under 5-6 atmospheres pressure. In 1990, says Allessandro Ceci, “In our winemaking, we leave 2% sugar in the musto before pressing … and we use nature’s tool, coldness, to increase the quality of Cantina Ceci Wines. By keeping the wine under lower temperatures for a longer period in the stainless-steel vats we slow the secondary fermentation. This control of the coldness enhances the natural fruitiness and aroma of our superior wines”.

I note that in Phillip M. Wagner’s, “American Wines and Winemaking”, Wagner promotes cold temperature during secondary fermentation. “The wine profits at this stage by a prolonged and thorough chilling, which promotes clarification and further softens the wine by precipitation of more cream of tartar. In my home winemaking, I leave 2% sugar after primary fermentation and expose the wine to coldness during secondary fermentation.

Maria Teresa Ceci has tips for the American traveler in Italy regarding choosing good wine. First, she states, drink wine that you can afford as there are many good wines that come for a good price. White wines should be consumed early before two years old and chilled, and reds after two years at about 65 degrees.

The “wine choice always depends on the meal”, says Maria Theresa, and wine pairing is not a snobbish concept but has an anatomic basis from the tongue to the brain. Emilia Romagna is noted for Parmagiano Reggiano Cheese (PDO) and Prosciutto di Parma ham and the special cut of the prosciutto called Culatello di Zibello. These are special tastes which leave you with long-lasting flavors. It is to “polish or clean the tongue” that the great red Ceci Lambrusco wines exist. In Emilia Romagna the citizens prefer the sparkling but dry Lambrusco wine which is a certified regional wine.

Maria Theresa says “Maximo” or heavy meals like beef and boar go well with a red, hearty and dry wine like Otello Nebrodi secco and lighter fish dishes are paired with the white and light Otello Spumante wine. If you experience the Italian fragrant dish of penne pasta with the sauce of tomatoes, olives, olio di olive (olive oil), caperi, and basilico you would want to have the fruity aroma of Cantina Ceci’s white and extra dry Spumante Secco Tre Verdiana. Its name derives from the blend of three (tre) grapes, malvasia, pinot noir and chardonnay from the land of Giuseppe Verdi.

I asked Alessandro, what are the fundamentals of wine tasting (degustazione)? Alessandro enthusiastically answers, the American who travels in Italy must spend time and gain basic knowledge about wine tasting. And most importantly, “Honor your personal likes and dislikes and buy what pleases you”. Fruity (fruttato) versus savory, a tart taste, is an important difference; Sweet (dolce) or bone dry (secco) a wine with no sweetness. Some wines like Moscato dessert wines are fruity and made sweet. Full body versus light body refers to viscosity (think regular milk versus skim milk). The labyrinth of “terminology” applied to wine tasting can be overdone. Keep it simple. A tip for you: your nose is your friend. If wine smells bad, it will taste bad. I take some notes.

Must good wine be expensive (costoso)? Maria Teresa says mostly no and sometimes yes. Her Italian diplomacy is notable. Americans with a little knowledge and traveling in Italy will always enjoy good wine for a reasonable price. After years pass, certain vintages have magnificent aromas, deep colors and soft after tastes and, if they are in limited supply, they are expensive. Supply and demand more than quality will determine the price of some very expensive wines as in all commodities. The conclusion, a very good wine can be purchased for $25 retail and $50 in a restaurant and do not forget the value in box wines for home.

My final question for Maria Teresa and Allessandro Ceci was what they would tell the American traveler who wishes to “live Italy”. Maria Teresa recommends that travelers spend a minimum of 4 nights in Emilia Romagna or any other Provinces. Including flying time 14 days is a minimum itinerary. In Emilia, she recommends visits to the Parma Center and its beautiful Duomo and Baptistery and the Teatro Regio opera house. Every street (strada) and around each corner there are secrets waiting for you, like the Conservatory of Music, Parco Ducale gardens, and much beautiful architecture. My favorite is Strada Farini and lunch (pranzo) at the Enoteca Fontana or at Salumaria Rosi. Also, just a short drive north of Parma is the village of Busetto the birthplace of the composer Guiseppe Verdi who wrote Rigoletto, Il trovatore and La traviata and others. And in the valley south of Parma is Ermes Fontana a certified Prosciuttificio e Salumificio (Ham and Salami Factory). They specialize in producing high-quality Italian delicacies, including Prosciutto di Parma, Capocollo salame, and rolled Pancetta.

Allessandro chimed in that within 65 miles is the Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini and Ducati automobile manufacturers and museums, that are unmatched automobiles in the world.

After the interview, I was escorted on a tour of the working winery. Cantina Ceci is a high-tech stage of large stainless-steel instruments connected in series with gages which measure the pressures and sugar concentrations in the developing wine. It is like a well written symphony with andantes and allegros and ending with elegante bottling and packaging. As I looked over my shoulder, Maria Teresa and Allessandro’s father Giovanni “Jonnie” Ceci, came riding his bicycle. What an entrance and what a robust looking older gentleman with a gentle smile. As Don Giovanni passed, he tipped his cap, we exchanged greetings and off rode the Master.

Cantina Ceci is a modern and highly mechanized operation requiring a fraction of the man hours of years ago but with the same Ceci “heart and soul”.

Cantina Ceci Tasting Table

As always, came the warmth of Italian hospitality and a glass of their famous Otello Nebrodi di Lambrusco. It is the pride of the Ceci family served along with, Parmagiano Reggiano: delicato e dilizioso e bravo.

This astonishing wine has a dark violet-red coloring. The Otello is dry and full bodied. The bouquet unveils an aroma of strong red fruits that envelope your senses. An aroma that fills the air as you drink. The soft after taste of fruit continues to linger on the palate.

It was a pleasant end to a pleasant visit. The Italian way of living has stimulated writers, poets, painters and stories of love and tragedy as well as extraordinary architecture.

Thank you, Don Giovanni, Maria Teresa, and Allessandro and the Ceci family.

IL Dio vi benedica (God bless you).

Otello Nero di Lambrusco

Before leaving, I asked Alessandro and Maria Teresa where they enjoyed eating. It was unanimous, the secret local eatery is called Trattoria IL Norcino on Via Colorno north of Parma, which serves traditional food. Norcino means pig butcher.

I drove south to Parma along Via Colorno, SP343, and I thought, how blessed I was.

Until next time, God bless you and stay well.

George A. Arangio, M.D.

P.S. Keep We Talk with God at your bedside and share it with your family.

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Summary:

This lesson recounts a 2011 visit to Cantina Ceci in Emilia Romagna, Italy, where the author explored the rich history of the Ceci family’s winemaking tradition. The post highlights the region's significance, the family's legacy in producing Lambrusco wine, and offers tips for travelers interested in Italian wine and culture.

George A. Arangio, M.D., is the author of We Talk with God, a scripture-based guide to God’s advice that will boost your spiritual energy, bring you peace, and enrich your life. It is full of simple lessons. It shows how God’s Word guarantees answers to life’s important questions. It may also be the answer to your prayers. Please read it and write a review on Amazon.com. For further insights and discussion, visit WeTalkWithGod.com.